= Kasane no Irome =

by Anthony J. Bryant

I am frequently asked for information on one of the most complex aspects of Heian women’s fashion: kasane no irome, the proper layering of robes to produce specific colored patterns. These colors varied by season (and sometimes days within the seasons) and wearing the wrong color pattern out of its proper date could have been far more catastrophic to a lady’s reputation (and reputed aesthetic sensibilities) than the modern wearing of white shoes after Labor Day.

Often the variation would be a simple application of shading more subtle than can be reproduced with “web-safe” colors. This would be the production of multiple infusions in carefully regulated dye-baths. While to the English ear (and perhaps eye) there is no distinct difference between “pale purple” and “light purple,” the Japanese had a color distinction between “usuki murasaki” and “asaki murasaki” (equivalent terms in Japanese to the English example) that we simply can’t appreciate with a web browser or monitor. In fact, unless one is actually interested in recreating the actual dying process, it may be safer to consider both a paler purple (call it “lavender” if you will) and be done with it. Of course, such a simplification would have struck Sei Shōnagon, that self-proclaimed paragon of style, as near heresy.

It will be noted that some color patterns have multiple names, and just to make things more difficult, some identical names have different color patterns. Fortunately, these typically at least differ in seasonal use, but don’t count on it.

This page represents a first draft of what I hope will ultimately be a definitive enumeration and presentation of all the possible color patterns. I still have about twenty-five or thirty patterns to be done, and then sorted. This is a temporary solution to the long-standing question of what the layers were.

Layering the robes

Each of the styles is represented in color by a chart such as is shown at left. The layout represents what would be seen at the end of a woman’s sleeve; the hitoe (an unlined under-robe) peeks out at the wrist — sometimes for considerable length; over it is worn a series of kinu, or robes (which can be lined or unlined depending on the season). Typically these robes are called the “itsutsu-ginu” or “five robes” (count them and see why — even though some styles actually called for six). Like the hitoe, the kinu were plain or figured cloth, but were not actually multi-colored patterned brocades; the heavily patterned cloth was reserved for the upper or outer robes.

Over itsutsu-ginu was worn the uwagi, and sometimes over that was worn a kouchiki.

Color patterns worn seasonally

Colored exemplars

Patterns worn year-round, and at celebratory festivals

Patterns worn from 10/1

Patterns worn from the go-sekku to spring

Murasaki no

Patterns worn from the fourth month

Patterns worn from the tenth month to the go-sekku

Additional patterns to be sorted shortly

This page and all contents copyright ©2019 by Sengoku Daimyo, LLC and the authors.
Copying or transmission in all or part without express written permission is forbidden.