Color and fabric standards of shitagasane worn with men’s sokutai
  Summer shitagasane Winter shitagasane
Fabric Color Cloth Fabric Color Cloth
Emperor Surface Kenmon shomon Sûo Tate tobishi Stiff silk weave or brocade White Ko-aoi
Lining Unlined Stiff silk weave Kokisûo Tate tobishi
(2/panel width)
Officials Kugyô
(ranks 1–3)
Surface Kenmon shomon Sûo Yokobishi Stiff silk weave White Brocade
Lining Unlined Stiff silk weave Black (or fukaki sûo) Yoko tobishi
Denjôbito
(ranks 4
& 5) + 6
Surface Koku shiki Futaai No pattern Plain silk White No pattern
Lining Unlined Plain silk Black (or fukaki sûo) No pattern

Length of kyô (shitagasane train) from heels
Suzaku
(947)
Go-Sanjô
(1070)
Juntoku
(1212)
Late 13th C.
Shinnô (Royal Princes) 1.5 feet ? ? ?
Kanpaku (Regent) 15 feet
Daijin (Ministers) 1 foot 7 feet 10 feet 10 feet
Nagon
(Counsellors)
Dainagon .8 foot 6 feet 9 feet 8 feet
Chûnagon .8 foot 6 feet 8 feet 7 feet
Sangi (Advisors) .6 foot 5 feet 7 feet 5 feet
3rd court rank 5 feet 7 feet 5 feet *
4th & 5th court rank 4 feet 6 feet 4 feet
Bettô & daiben (Chiefs & Controllers) 3.5 feet
* Includes second court rank as well.

This chart last modified on 3/24/04.

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